Daniel Woods sends Desperanza, V15

by deadpoint | 03/01/2010
 

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THIS VIDEO HAS (41) COMMENTS

Conspiracy

This wasn't even filmed in Hueco, it was at a gym in Detroit by the same people who faked the Moon landing. Daniel Woods is actually a 6 year old Chinese circus performer that was born with a partial tail who's image was altered in post production. V15 and drop off are code for the the fix is in. You are all fools and Yankee Bravos, I wish you all the rain in Font coupled with bad Sushi. I know this because the Porta john at Pete's was a time machine, so don't bother answering I already read your replies.

Peace and handguns

c

posted 15 weeks ago by Anonymous

G15

they should rate "boulder" problems that dont "topout" with a new scale that encompasses how gay drop offs are... the G scale. that way there wont be any confusion about real boulder problems that can be topped out and a First Ascent is real .

posted 21 weeks ago by Anonymous

damn you suburban wankster..

damn you suburban wankster.. you hit the nail on the head

"I thought real Boulder problems topped out? Everything else is just masturbation; and I say this with all due respect.
Sounds like its still a project, albeit impossible, maybe?"

-Hypocryptochild

If you don't think you're being a hypocrite here, I think you need to change into a fresh pair of colored contacts bra!

.....

couldnt have put it better my self..

TOP OUT = send

drop off = V GAY

posted 21 weeks ago by Anonymous

the only ratings that matter

the only ratings that matter in climbing are this: you can either do it. or you can't. Daniel can do this climb, YOU can't. why bother about a rating until you can downgrade it yourself. DOWN WITH 8A.NU....

posted 21 weeks ago by Anonymous

don't get me wrong...

it's a sick climb but not having a top out kind of sucks :\

it's a shame really.

posted 22 weeks ago by christopher marten

Downgrade it!!!!!

As a south-eastern climber, I strongly feel that this should be downgraded. if the line were to be put up in the south east it would be probably the first 13 in the tag area. why do all you western climbers take yourselves so serious. We are climbers. We need senses of humor, and lighten up. Hell almost all of horse pens was downgraded to deter you 8a.nu worshippers and spray lords from spraying all over our pristine boulderfields. you send a cool line awesome congrats dan keep crushing bro, but for you other wanna be traversi/ puccio sprayers shut your damn mouths quit bitching about grades and make the choice to either Chuff hard or send.

-BOB

posted 23 weeks ago by Anonymous

Dear Fail(anonymous) Wow, you

Dear Fail(anonymous)
Wow, you got us! Your'e a quick one.. But what you didn't realize is, that its not even Daniel, its an animatronic robot. Look closer. We use these a lot in "the industry" to get the job done. We were lucky enough to get a grant from The North Face for this project, otherwise none of this would be possible.

posted 25 weeks ago by CryptoChild

Fail

Look at 30 sec, just before the fall, and at 120 sec... the girl look down, then look up and Daniel grabs the little rock tip with his fingers 2 sec after ... seriously we don't have any proof that he started from the lower start with this video.

posted 25 weeks ago by Anonymous

where is my previous comment?

do we have to wait for approval?

posted 25 weeks ago by Anonymous

V15 my ass

Daniel is really strong, we are not arguing with that.
he has steel fingers, and that's one of the reasons why he graded Terremer as Soft V15, because he does not find it Hell like other climbers.

On the other side, he said that Desperanza felt harder than Terremer, but he can't compare those 2 as they are 2 different styles. And this climb is an endurance climb on a roof. And he found it harder than Terremer just because he added 6 moves of V7!!

and a World Class climber told me in private the following:

no way in hell it's v15. hard v14 maybe, but definitely not v15. a v7 does not add anything to a v14. there's even a kneebar rest after the v7 if you wanted to rest

And Daniel said, in his comment on 8a.nu Forum that he graded based on the number of ascents!! is he serious?!! so does that mean he can grade all his First Ascents V15?!! he's totally wrong. He sent the game and called it V16. So he thought that everything he sends is at that upper level!

posted 25 weeks ago by Anonymous

Even More bad ass

this was even more bad ass cause it got the FA during the Rock Rodeo Competition. That is why there were so many photographers.

posted 25 weeks ago by Anonymous

Dear Suburbanwankster, aka

Dear Suburbanwankster, aka anonymous.
No one wants to listen to your anonymous BS.
I know who you are and soon everyone else will.
If you want to be respected in the climbing industry
you need to be a real person. Wake up.

posted 25 weeks ago by CryptoChild

A lot of ignorance going on here...

1. Lots of photos going on because it was a big FA of a classic hard Hueco line that many have tried and failed to do.

2. Daniel did the ascent in front of a ridiculous amount of people. The video is edited for entertainment purposes and is incredible.

3. Esperanza ends at the hueco and always has. Topping out is rendered almost undoable by a tree that the Park rangers don't want hindered in any way.

4. It's obvious that the people talking trash on here are a bunch of teenage kids or people that define themselves by how hard they climb. If you pull hard then there is no reason to take away from others...if you don't pull hard then obviously you're only recourse is to offer opinions and detract from others. It's pretty obvious what kind of crowd is offering comments here.

5. Sponsors are what allow these guys to climb for a living and help sites like Deadpoint to offer vids for us to enjoy. So hang a North Face banner for all I care, as long as North Face keeps making quality gear and sites like this are able to keep progressing the sport and keep us entertained and they help guys like Daniel and others keep climbing.

6. Photographers were also eager to get shots of the ascent because they make scratch from selling the photos to magazines and such.

7. Go climb and get strong.

posted 25 weeks ago by Anonymous

"I thought real Boulder

"I thought real Boulder problems topped out? Everything else is just masturbation; and I say this with all due respect.
Sounds like its still a project, albeit impossible, maybe?"

-Hypocryptochild

If you don't think you're being a hypocrite here, I think you need to change into a fresh pair of colored contacts bra!

posted 25 weeks ago by Suburbanwankster

Well Done

That was amazing.
But do we really need 50 photographers covering the event? Maybe next time there will be a live DJ and some schwag giveaways.

posted 25 weeks ago by Anonymous

Well, I guess this will have

Well, I guess this will have to do until Adam Ondra comes to Hueco and reverses Left Martini and takes it straight into Desperanza. Hueco will be like suck on that one Wheel of Life!

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Well I don't climb V14's,

Well I don't climb V14's, still working on getting the skillz up. Do you think if I peed on some sub V14 climbers in the morning I might be able to reach V14 glory? I'm going to try it for sure, thanks for the training tip! Wait a second. . . there aren't any V14's in my gym or nearby so no one climbs V14's around me, that means I can try morning pissing on everyone at the gym and that will probably make my V14 chances even better!

posted 26 weeks ago by BS1

dumb haters

the only people that should comment on the validity of this video/the send are people that can climb this grade all the other people like BS1 that daniel takes his morning piss on should stfu and get their skills up

posted 26 weeks ago by JTKurtz

lame haters

the only people that deserve to comment about this video and the line are people like daniel that can climb v14 so all the haters like BS1 should shut their mouths

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

@ "Fake Video" Are you

@ "Fake Video"
Are you dumb?
1. Daniel is ridiculously strong
2. There were many witnesses/photographers
3. Sometimes when people edit video they use footage in which they do fall, but just piece it together. (Sometimes the footage of the fall is better than that of the send)

Good work daniel and keep crushin!

posted 26 weeks ago by Joe

FAKE VIDEO

anybody else notice how the first video it shows of him falling off when he crosses through is USED AGAIN for the apparent full ascent?? 2 seconds before he falls of it changes camera angle then flicks back again to him on the last moves. I think he's climbined it 3 parts and spliced this bullshit video together. You can even hear the girl in BOTH videos saying the EXACT same quotes and the same girl in red behind him spotting. Lets see you do it again sunshine with the whole thing video from start to finish in one go.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

"...My relative priorities

"...My relative priorities are half climbs with twice as many half moves. Sometimes I give my routes grades since I am the FA ist and people laugh at me because sometimes I give them a grade that is harder than the full route grade..."

...because ANYONE cares, and EVERYONE wants to know about your climbing...

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

"if you fa a problem that

"if you fa a problem that claims to be among the areas hardest, you should strive for purity of line as well...my two cents..."

A quote from someone who has definately never seen Esperanza in front of them and does not appreciate either the history of Hueco's ascents or the respect for the delicate setting of them.

While a top out is preferable, the line is incredible and an equally incredible send by Daniel.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Daniel is a badass for doing

Daniel is a badass for doing this crazy hard line and no one and their bad attitudes can take that away!

I'm glad he doesn't conform to people trying to impose their top out will on him. People are always trying to impose their over force fullness on me just because I like to climb half boulder problems and half routes at the gym then give them my own half grade with little pieces of tape half way up the routes. people laugh at me because I like to do different types of movement, like doing half a move on a gym climb then using another different colored (so called, "off route") hold to do the other half of the move. people point and laugh and no one tries my half climbs or respects my half grades. My relative priorities are half climbs with twice as many half moves. Sometimes I give my routes grades since I am the FA ist and people laugh at me because sometimes I give them a grade that is harder than the full route grade. I like focusing on the process of climbing half routes and try not to focus on the end, halfway up the route. At least I use extreme amounts of awareness on many different levels, like when I park my car in a multi story garage, my awareness is totally focused on that level so I can find it again. Other times I focus my awareness at a half level, then go for the full, half send!

posted 26 weeks ago by BS1

in response to vs Witness the Fitness

CHRIS you sound like the biggest DOUCHE BAG i have ever heard. Why compare a climb in arkansas to one in hueco tanks. If you have not seen the line then stop talking about it! Go see why it is impossible to top out. Shut up chuffers

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Damn what is with all the

Damn what is with all the hate flowing on the this line. Truth be told the line is probably harder than Terremer. Nice job Daniel!

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

hate, hate and hate some

hate, hate and hate some more! Jump on it and give it your best shot! Why take anything away from Daniel's FA, the boy is sick strong!

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

great send

grades are extremely subjective, and _proposed_ by the fa'ist. in this case, the proposed grade might not make sense to some; however esperanza is a really hard line that requires an extreme amount of awareness on all levels. commenting on its grade should be left up to those who can climb it.

bouldering does not _have_ to be about the end goal of getting to the top. it can be about experiencing different types of movement, and focusing on the process rather than the end. it really just depends on relative priorities, and what one takes to be important in his/her own climbing. if some one wants to claim otherwise, then that person is--in essence--being overly forceful of their own climbing values on others.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

bickering much?

I understand everyone's issues with the climb. a top out would definitely be more proper, but to question the grade? i mean, unless we can all go there and climb it and confirm the grade, then i'm not gonna question it. it is what it is--a stupid hard problem. and i'll still give d.woods credit for the send and for pushing the limits of difficulty which is the whole point of climbing for me.

~~Justin

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

I understand everyone's

I understand everyone's issues with the climb. and I do agree that a top out seems more proper. but to question the grade? Unless we can all climb it and confirm it, i'm not gonna question it. it is what it is. it's still stupid hard and i'll give credit to d.woods for the send even if it doesn't top out. he's still pushing the limits of what climbers are capable of.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

False.

False.

posted 26 weeks ago by CryptoChild

No Top-out.

The problem ends at the hueco.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Topout.

There is a tree growing into the rock above the finishing hueco that covers all of the holds necessary for a potential topout. Climbers have been respecting the wishes of the park (starting with Fred's FA) by not damaging or removing the tree, as it would be impossible to topout without doing so.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

vs Witness the Fitness

unlike Witness the Fitness, a line that has been compared to this one by Sharma, this one is not that much of an obvious line. personally, speaking from the perspective of a V9-10 climber I would say that the equation V7 into V14 equals V15 doesn´t make sense to me. if i link a V 3 (something I can cruise) in a V9, it remains a V9...if not, I should work on my endurance a bit. also this one doesn´t top out (apparently). is a topout really not possible? if you fa a problem that claims to be among the areas hardest, you should strive for purity of line as well...my two cents...

Chris

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Wheres the product placement

Im surprised there wasnt a NORTH FACE banner hung up.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Im surprised he didnt hang up

Im surprised he didnt hang up a north face banner but im sure they will photo shop in some of the thousand pics taken. Topout FAIL!!!!!

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

I love how Hueco just turned

I love how Hueco just turned in to WACO. Once again a bunch of yahoo's commenting on something they know little about. Unless you can climb this rig, your comments are foolish.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Freakn sick So funny all

Freakn sick
So funny all those cameras going off, like some crazy photo shoot. Awesome
pe4ce

posted 26 weeks ago by chetroy

Top out?

Where's the top out? Jumping down= lame status! Sit start to mega project with no top out = mega lame status! Instead someone should try to add a stand start from where Esparanza usually ends and call it Esparstandsza, then I'll be impressed when someone does a butt dragger and adds a couple toughie moves into it!

posted 26 weeks ago by BS1

Top out?

Where's the top out? What's the point of trying mega hard on the mega-project extension if you don't even get the glory of a hard man mantle to finish it off? I don't get it, dropping off is for crags that are crappy and don't have good blocks you can't top out. From what I've seen Waco has lots of boulders to summit. Unimpressed, find a mega proj that summits the freaking boulder then bring the climbing paparazzi in to document it otherwise it's just a tryhardathon for hard grade status.

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

Where's the top out? Why

Where's the top out? Why bother spending time trying some mega hard mega project that doesn't even top out! What a bunch of suckers!

posted 26 weeks ago by Anonymous

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