Evolv's Optimus Prime

Designed by Chris Sharma, Evolv’s Optimus Prime was one of the most highly anticipated climbing shoes of the year, and it was well worth the wait. DPM had the opportunity to test the Optimus Prime at our home crag on a variety of routes including cracks, slabs, faces, and overhangs. The Optimus features a semi-symmetrical last and stiff midsole, focusing your weight over your big toe, making them ideal for edging on steeper terrain. Most down turned shoes often become flat after extensive climbing, but the Optimus Prime has maintained its shape after several months of use due to its stiffer midsole. On steep terrain, the down cambered design is great. As the shoe becomes more sensitive, this down cambered design allows one to pull with the toes like a second set of hands. The Optimus Prime has a slightly deeper fitting heel than its slippered twin the Optimus. This deep heel cup provided security when heel hooking, and its tension rand adds control as well as prevents stretching. At $125, they are a bargain for such a high performance pair of shoes. If you are looking for a shoe for vertical to overhanging sport climbing, the Optimus Primes are a first class ticket on the send train!

-Elissa Colley