by Matt Stark
I remember one comp i went to in NY, it was an ABS event and cost me something like $30 to enter. They had free samples and grab bags tossed out to the crowd during the end of the event while working out the scores and it was loads of fun. After it was all over the owner of the gym mentioned next year not involving the ABS, entry would then be something like $10 but there would probably be less free stuff. No one seemed to consider this a drawback which makes me believe that while not at the front of everyone's mind, people have a basic understanding of how these things work. Regardless, this is a good, tangible perspective on the subject (even if some people think it's completely irrelevant).
And not surprisingly; there is never a shortage of swag and great prizes at the midnight burn.
There are exceptions to the rules. For example our gym in the past year has spent over $5k in holds from one company and $4k from another, when we went to them for a sponsership request (5 months in advance) we were turned down. The other gym in town which hasn't purchased bulk holds in a decade did receive sponsership. The exception, sponsered athletes working at the other facility. I understand the industry is small and strained but it can be very dis-heartening when this occurs.
"What the hell does this have to do with 99 percent of the climbing community?"
How many people compete in comps across the country? While it might be less than 1/2 of the climbing community, if you're coming to the website your odds are probably better than 50%. The point is, when you go to a comp, it is exciting to have sweet gear either in raffles or as the prizes for the comp itself and different divisions. I know that if there is a crash pad or rope up for grabs, even if I don't win it, it is super exciting for the winner and for the crowd to see such a cool prize given. Even all the mini prizes like chalk, energy drinks, cordellettes, etc. are fun.
From the opposite perspective, if there is nothing given out besides a so-so prize for 1st place (I was at an ABS comp where the ONLY prize was a shoe resole kit to the 1st place person) it feels less satisfactory.
Interesting article and I definitely will think about this in the future with the comps I attend.
If you have worked at a gym you understand this article...perhaps your brash comment should be reserved when you actually understand the comp scene...I feel this..I have two more comps and all people expect is free stuff!!! It is exhausting
What the hell does this have to do with 99 percent of the climbing community?
It has to be a give and take, you have to spend money before you deserve some consideration. I have been on the end of the no answer numerous times, but they were right in saying No....great article
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