8 Year Old Girl Sends Power of SIlence (V10)

I spotted her at ABS nationals on the final FYD problem. She is very creative on the wall and uses her size, strength and attitude to excel on the wall. She is very polite as well. Hopefully she sticks with it, will be fun to see her progress along with the rest of the strong field of youth USA climbing members.

Here's an opinion from some experts about what climbing can do to a youth's body:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcKclzbY4Yo

V10, V9- whatever. Fact is, she's climbing really hard stuff and she's tiny. As a father of a 9 year old, I just hope its all about fun for her. There's plenty of time to stress the numbers and grades. She's adorable and I bet she's fun to climb with. Kids rule!

A single-minded view on "awesomeness" is just as myopic as the internet pre-disposition to be negative. The two don't cancel each other out - they're simply both ignorant. Just because the ascent is striking and a big achievement doesn't mean we shouldn't be asking ourselves deeper questions about it.

I second the other person's comment that not only is the ascent valid, but could be considered an eliminate variation. I would like to see top climbers attempt the problem calling the pocket "off". It would be damn hard to repeat with adult sized fingers.

Its MORE than valid!

or in a very similar "don't-use-the-right-pocket" manner, by another (much older) woman of diminutive stature. with all problems, the crux can be in different places for different people. what she did was obviously very hard. and awesome. did i mention it was awesome?

What is even cooler is if she just downgraded a V10 climb because it can be done easier than everyone else thought.

I think the focus right now shouldn't be on the case studies of what climbing can do to a young girl's body image and physique and more about the psychological effects of the the negative crap our community can dish out online. She is 8. The hateful remarks and efforts to discredit her ascent will only push this girl away from climbing. Instead of feeling insecure about your own climbing ability and lashing out towards an 8 year old to inflate your ego, get psyched. There is new beta. Now maybe you can send the problem too.

Wow, I would love to see the video of that send. That little girl must be amazing! If she is climbing V10 already then it may not just be the female climbers that have to watch out. If she keeps climbing like that then maybe Sharma will need to watch out.

On a side note, I have seen several young kids attempt problems with high start holds at competitions. They strictly enforce the rules there. My son has had several of his climbs counted as a fall because he did not have both hands in the start box when he lifted his feet off the ground.

That makes starting these problems extremely difficult for young kids since they have to do very hard moves just to make it to the start of the problem.

Here is an example of my 6 year old son trying to start a route with a reachy start.

http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/2010-peak-experiences-sport-cli...

I don't wan't to reduce the performance, and I never seen this problem for real, but I think the crux move of this problem is the move from the right hand pinch to the top of the crack (seen that in several Dosage I think, or Trutch, don't remember).
The thing is she doesn't even needed this pinch ! I think in this case tiny fingers helped a little to avoid this large scale dynamic move. But well, let be honest, the video is amazing, and she just rampaged it !

I think if you want to "generalize" studies from gymnastics to climbing, you must show why that is valid. That would probably take a study of its own. But you are simply assuming it.

After watching the video, my biggest concern for her is that she's hanging out with Obe.

Super impressive, I hope she stays motivated and continues to enjoy climbing.

I'd like to add that I think she should call this problem an FA...Power of Silence Direct...grade it V13, and dare anyone to repeat it without using that pocket around the arete. I bet it's at least 8B using her method.

Sorry, but since no one in the climbing industry or media seems interested in sponsoring studies about health and climbing, studies of gymnasts are the closest thing. If you want to dismiss them as none generalizable to climbing go ahead.

This post was edited. Patricia, there is no need to name call.

...with publicizing a child who is a prodigy in her sport and who wants to be publicized. She has a fan page on Facebook. Her occupations are listed as "climber and model." She's been in several newspapers and magazines in New York.

...with youth climbing hard boulder problems if they feel able to. look at some other kids who have been climbing since a young age (let's say pre-12 years old). you might know their names--Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Tyler Landman, Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, Lizzy Asher, Emily Harrington, Angie Payne, Katie Brown... All these athletes have been climbing fairly hard since they were young, and it seems to me that they are no more likely to get injured than the rest of us (who started climbing during or after puberty). It also seems that they are fit and healthy, and that their bodies have adapted for climbing in positive ways. I think it's hard to say what climbing hard from a young age will do until it's studied more fully.

What do studies about gymnastics have to do with climbing?

btw, a serious problem in the U.S. is ever-EARLIER menarche.

Some studies to consider (via Google Scholar / search terms: "gymnast body development" **** Title: Pubertal development in elite juvenile gymnasts: Effects of physical training. Abstract: Twenty-two female teenagers engaged in elite gymnast training were prospectively studied during a five-year period and their pubertal development was recorded. Height and weight, as well as stage of development according to Tanner, were registered every six months. FSH, LH, TSH and prolactin were measured in girls who had not yet had their first menstrual period. Twenty-two healthy school girls in the same age group who were not actively engaged in physical exercise served as a control group. Pubertal development was completed during the observation period in all the gymnasts but one, who had primary amenorrhea at the age of eighteen. As a group, the gymnasts had a significantly delayed age of menarche compared to the control group and to normal Swedish girls. They also had significantly less body fat and were shorter and lighter than the control group. They grew much more slowly and did not have the distinct growth spurt seen in the controls. The final height of six of the gymnasts was less than the expected height. The frequency of injuries was high in the gymnasts, which might be a result of hard training combined with late menarche and low body fat. **** Title: Growth and Pubertal Development in Elite Female Rhythmic Gymnasts. Abstract: Gymnasts were taller than average height for age, with mean height above and mean weight below the 50th percentile. Actual height SD score was positively correlated to weight SD score (P < 0.001), number of competitions (P = 0.01), and body mass index (BMI; P < 0.001). Predicted adult height SD score was positively correlated to weight SD score (P < 0.001) and negatively to body fat (P = 0.004). There was a delay in skeletal maturation of 1.3 yr (P < 0.001). Pubertal development was following bone age rather than chronological age. The mean age of menarche was significantly delayed from that of their mothers and sisters (P = 0.008 and P = 0.05, respectively), was positively correlated to the intensity of training and to the difference between chronological age and bone age (P < 0.001 and P = 0.002, respectively), and was negatively correlated to body fat (P < 0.001). **** Title: Peripubertal Pertubations in Elite Gymnasts Caused by Sport Specific Training Regimes and Inadequate Nutritional Intake Abstract: Low body fat masses of elite female gymnasts are favoured for the current aesthetic appeal required for complex movements performed by the gymnasts. Optimal nutritional intake relative to physical training regimes is essential for pubertal development. Here we evaluate how high intensity training in combination with nutritional intake affects pubertal development. Twenty-two female (13.6 ± 1.0 years) and 18 male (12.4 ± 1.6 years) elite gymnasts from national cadres were enlisted in this study. Skeletal maturation and hormonal levels of the hypophyseal, gonadal, and adrenal axes were estimated. Prepubertal and pubertal stages were determined, and body composition was measured using two indirect methods. Whereas female gymnasts showed bone retardation (1.7 years), reduced height potential, minimal fat mass (4.3 ±1.3 kg), no significant increase in pubertal oestradiol levels (17.6 ± 4.2 pg/ml vs. 23.9 ± 13.4 pg/ml), and delayed menarche (2.3 years), male gymnasts displayed virtually unaltered pubertal development due to different training regimes. Nutritional intake was insufficient in all gymnasts although to a lesser extent for male gymnasts. Intensive physical training of elite female gymnasts combined with inadequate nutritional intake can alter the normal pattern of pubertal development. In female gymnasts the onset of menarche can be influenced by keeping the amount of fat mass low. There is a peripubertal change favouring fat mass over muscle mass in females while there is a net gain of muscle mass during pubertal development in males.

All you people do on this site is argue. Learn
from Ashima and grow up, climbing is about having
fun.

I'm very interested to see the video. Does anyone know when it will get posted?

It sounds like Ashima is self-motivated. She climbs every day after school, till it gets dark. I have no problem with her doing something she loves, that she is a prodigy in.

Shouldn't climbing, as a culture (or as a sport), begin to set some norms about reporting early childhood ascents? I'm not talking about the stylistic issues (although I strongly believe that people should be as transparent as possible when reporting sends - and this was not the case here), I'm talking about psychological and physiological issues. Let me start with the latter and return to the former. We know very little about how the stresses of climbing, especially hard climbing, influence the growth and development of young bodies. I think, before, as a culture, the reporting and sponsoring of young climbers becomes a norm (perhaps it's too late?), that the companies and magazines pony up for some research to determine what is safe and what is most effective for proper development. I always get squeamish when I watch female olympic gymnasts because I get the strong sense that their extreme workouts have retarded what would have been normal growth. It's an empirical question. Before we give her money for shoes, we should decide if it's healthy. Although less objective, the psychological concerns are likely even more daunting. Most importantly, it's common that kids that get too much exposure to quickly end up confusing their intrinsic motivation with the new and powerful extrinsic motivation of attention, money, and fame. By publicizing her sends, we may be ruing climbing for her. The next two points are gender specific: First, female climbers are notoriously harsh on up-and-comers that are pre-pubescent. Tori Allen wrote a thoughtful article a few years back about how she was treated by more senior women on the competition circuit when she was tearing it up. Do we really need other girls experiencing the same treatment? Second, women very quickly become sex symbols. At what age is it appropriate to force young women to deal with this? People freely admit on other forums that they "oogle" Alex Puccio's myspace page just to oogle a "hot" climber. I think the climbing media should be far more conservative with these issues until they are better understood. Right now we might be ruining the sport for young kids and worse, ruining their bodies and self-images. Props to Ashima. Shame on deadpointmag.

You'll see when you see the video.

yeah its pure impressive this kid just hasnt seen her himself. i gotta say until i saw her its pretty hard to imagine

At the risk of sounding like an overly chilled out climber or a preacher on climbing philosophy, why are you even so intense about what is considered a send or not? She seems like she's having a great time climbing so does it really matter if she "sent" under the strictest definition of the term? I think this story is just supposed to be a cool look at a young climber doing something that climbers more than twice her age work hard towards. I just hope she doesn't get caught up too much on grades and sends and continues to enjoy climbing. She could probably end up pushing the sport to new places in the future.

Wow man, you need to let it go. Fine she got boosted. For the record she has already sent another V10 in Hueco and several other hard problems on her short trip to Hueco. You have long arms, should we discredit all of your sends because they are long? Should we add a grade to a route if someone with a big fat ass sends it. Give it a rest, she is 8. Hanging extended from the start hold does nothing to the grade. Having been on the problem, I can tell you first hand having someone lift you to the starting hold should NOT take anything away from the send. Great job Ashima, don't let the punters get you down.

Way to go, Kiddo. Keep on climbing and have fun !

I don't necessary have a problem with her being lifted... I just think: 1) such things should be stated blatantly and 2) She should only be lifted to be placed in a position similar to that which a full grown adult would be in reaching the hold on their own. ie- on power of silence most people are very extended when they grab the start hold and it is quite awkward getting your feet on. If she was lifted, to a position with her arms bent and held there until she had placed her feet how she wanted them placed then I think the send should be put into context.

Power of Silence is an awesome send and in my opinion quite hard for v10 (though I don't know how the difficult translates to being however tall she is but with tiny fingers). I say good on her for doing the problem however she did it. The first move is by no means the crux, however that being said there a tons or routes/problems for which this is the case but you can't just skip them or stack 5 pads. If you do a problem outside of the style in which it is normally done (say being lifted to the start holds, even if it is only because you are 4ft tall) I believe you MUST make public the style in which you sent said route/problem (atleast if you are making the send public)

I'm not saying she didn't send the problem. I'm not saying she can't send tons of other v10's or harder and that there aren't plenty, even in Hueco, in which she wont need a boost to do so. I'm merely saying that the manner in which the climb was done is quite important. Chris Shrama can't just jug up the 5.12 or whatever it is start to Jumbo Love, even though it clearly poses no difficulty for him and then try and pass it off as if he sent it from the ground.....

All I can say is I now have someone 32 yrs younger than me to look up to. I just recently began climbing and now look back on how I wish I had known about it at an early age like Ashima. With the right direction and ongoing encouragement, she is bound to be the next greatest women's bouldere/climber. It's sad that grown adults have to make themselves feel more worthy of themselves in this sport by trying to knock down or belittle the efforts of a young girl who's just "doin' her thang". Rock on Ashima! You go girl!

Impressive and we look forward to seeing much more of her in the coming years. 

i tihnk everyone who has bashed her cant climb v10 themselves1 ondra better watch his back =)

i tihnk all the people who bash her are the ones who cant climb v10 themselves! Ondra better watch his back =)

I would hate for you to discredit any of her sends bc she had to be lifted to the starter hold. I lifted her to the start of dragon fly the other day and when she was ready for me to let go she was solid... you probably just suck at climbing :)

give me a break-- are we really going to take away from this girl's send by mentioning the fact that she probably had to get a boost to the start hold?!?! and yes, even mentioning that takes away from it.

this is awesome--good for her!!

yeah she did some real reachy problems at my gym it was very impressive to see such a little girl climb so hard
she probably climbed to the start holds on features nobody else could hold

The video is coming soon to answer your questions

I don't mean to take away from the "send" but I can I ask a simple question... the start to that particular problem is quite high. While it is common to use a cheater stone to reach the first hold it is still quite often a reach for an average height male. I'm curious how she started the problem. While grabbing the first hold and doing the first move are not the crux being lifted into it with bent arms and feet placed perfectly do make quite a difference...

SICK!

that's very impressive! congrats

This girl is gonna own Puccio at Nationals next year. Alex is busy eatin' a bunch of cookies and slacking off. Long live the new champion Ashima!!!!!!!!!!!!!!